We all know the big-block is the largest displacement V-8 engine built by Chrysler, and when it comes to a combination of torque, power, and drivability, the ranks as one of the best engines ever built. Instead of utilizing a high compression ratio or aggressive cam grind for its muscle, the relies on sheer size, making great power from an idle with enough torque to get even the heaviest Mopar C-Body moving quickly.
And while the Mopar does several things very well, we've always felt that with a few tweaks the engine was capable of well over the horsepower rating it got from the factory. The is definitely a versatile engine, having been installed in Mopar passenger vehicles from muscle cars to station wagons, in trucks, and even in boats.
Even the highest performing factorythe horsepower Six-Pack or Six-Barrel version, had a relatively mild hydraulic flat-tappet camshaft and non-adjustable rocker arms, ensuring years of smooth, maintenance free operation. Even better, s are still available in scrap yards, from core suppliers, or even in running vehicles if you know where to look.
The we're featuring in this build was actually in a low-mileage Winnebago motor home that was built on a '74 Dodge truck chassis. The motor home had seen better days and was being scrapped, so the owner simply had no use for the engine any more.
As an added benefit, this engine like many early to mid-seventies truck and motor home s was equipped with a factory forged crankshaft. So when we needed an engine to build as a dyno mule to test some parts, this fit the bill nicely. Even better, the engine had very little wear so it wouldn't need much in the way of machine work. Many engines used in motor homes now have high-mileage and are completely worn out, but some motor homes, especially older ones, didn't see much use.
The motor home our engine was in only showed some 40, miles on the odometer, and was only used once or twice a year for family vacations. When we disassembled this engine we found that all of the internals were standard, and the cylinder bores were still round and straight without any ridge at the top.
Since we had a set of older, standard bore Speed Pro forged, flat-top pistons on the shelf we acquired years ago at a swap meet, this engine was the perfect excuse to keep our pistons from collecting any more dust. The only downside to using our Speed Pro pistons was that the compression of this engine with the stock heads and the pistons. Since a with compression this low wouldn't make enough power to impress anyone, we took the opportunity to use a set of "" casting cylinder heads that were also sitting on a shelf in our shop.
After cleaning the heads up we cut the exhaust seats and installed a set of stock exhaust valves from some heads, a set of Comp valve springs, and performed a simple port-match job and valve job to make them serviceable. With a closed chamber design and a measured chamber volume of 82cc's, we calculated the static compression of our using the heads to be For the rotating assembly of this engine, we simply polished the crankshaft, installed ARP rod bolts and main studs, and new stock replacement engine bearings from Summit Racing Equipment.
We fitted our Speed Pro pistons with stock rings, and sealed the engine with a fresh set of gaskets and seals, also from Summit.
How to Break in a New Car
As you likely can tell, we're building this on a budget, and simply replacing the parts necessary to make it perform properly and last, but not going over the top with any lightweight or exotic pieces.
Using a new Melling oil pump with a factory B-Body HP oil pan and windage tray also keeps things inexpensive, but works just fine for an engine like our mild big-block. One area where we will definitely upgrade our is with a new camshaft and lifters from Comp Cams.
To enhance the power of our big-block, we chose a Comp PN solid flat-tappet cam and lifter kit. This cam isn't small by any means, but isn't a giant either with.
To spin the camshaft, we chose a Comp double roller timing set. Of course since we're upgrading to solid lifters, we also need to install adjustable rocker gear, so we installed a set of Comp's Ultra Pro-Magnum adjustable roller rocker arms.
The Ultra Pro-Magnum rocker kit comes with the rocker arms, adjustors, new shafts, and the necessary spacers. We've used these rockers before and found them to be some of the best rocker arms on the market for the price, and like the fact that the Comp rockers utilize ball-ball type pushrods.
These parts might be overkill for what we're building, but the durability makes it worthwhile. For induction, we will use an older Mopar Performance M-1 aluminum single-plane intake manifold that we picked up at the Mopar Nationals swap meet.
The intake was priced so well, that we couldn't pass it up. This carb is actually the most expensive single part we're installing on our engine, but will greatly ease tuning while the engine is on the dyno. In our experience the Ultra HP series of carbs from Holley perform flawlessly right out of the box, needing very little tuning just to match the carb to the particular engine.
We like the MSD distributor because it makes changing ignition timing curves easy, though for cost considerations a Chrysler electronic distributor would also be sufficient for this engine. For testing purposes, using the known good headers and distributor provided by APE ensure we won't have any issues while tuning this engine. Prior to firing up ourwe poured in six quarts of Comp Cams 10W30 break in oil and primed the oil system.Was bad fast and jumped every one on the starts.
I also had up to 5 people interested and sold 2 more at the track as I have to order them this week. Payton Pierce qualified 8th. He finished 2nd in his first heat and won the feature by over a half lap! Just keep the clutch clean after each weekend of racing by blowing the dust off and wiping the basket clean. The only problem I see in Dirt Racing is about once a month the tabs on the weight levers rust a little bit and need to be sand blasted with the hub.
But overall the clutch works real well from what I have seen in oval racing. We feel the new roller clutches were instrumental in us winning the State Championship Outlaw class for Apart from the speed, I like how easy the clutch is to adjust and maintain.
We have been running the dragonskin clutch for 7 years and so does all the club members. This year we became CRG dealers and Charlotte wanted to try one out. Bolted a new LO Briggs and off to the track we went.
Engine break in fine. Start pouring it on and clutch fails. Stick another Draggonskin on, snap the key way……. To our amazement, we were faster just by bolting the Vortex on.
Awesome product, reliable, cheap to maintain and fast out of the box. Thanks SMC. My son won Jr. And the best part…. Not one single adjustment was necessary!! This bulletproof clutch let us concentrate on his driving and the chassis.
What an amazing piece!!! Thank You!!! There is no need to measure spring heights for rpm engagement, the five adjusting holes make it a snap to set up.
You can rebuild this clutch in virtually seconds. The rebuild kit comes with clutch discs, drive plates and screws to do the job.
There is no need to send the clutch out. Even the beginner dad or mechanic can do it. This clutch powered my son to his Championship. I would not use anything else but Vortex! In the 20 lap feature, I passed 18 karts with the help of only one caution to take the win. I was on a Phantom Icon racing everyone else on Tritons, Impulses, and other karts.
I was using a two disc Vortex Roller Lever clutch. I ran Animal and Animal also that day. I won Animal and placed 6th in Animal Running an eighteen tooth sprocket really works the clutch hard but the engagement was always smooth. Even after a bunch of caution laps it never overheated.
The new clutch gear helped a ton.But we think we can help you with a few ways to gain horsepower while adding durability, too. Lake says many of the mistakes he sees people make are because of a lack of good information available.
Without it people are forced to depend on what they think they know, the occasional urban legend and advice from friends—but who knows where they are getting their information from? Lots of times it comes down to commonly believed myths and with little based on real facts. Here are a few myths we hope to help you avoid in the future. But engine technology and components are constantly evolving, and motor oils have evolved along with them.
The myth of improving protection by increasing viscosity can actually be harmful to your engine in some circumstances. As much as 70 percent of the wear on an engine occurs at start up.
Obviously, you want to get oil back to the bearings, the cylinder walls and all the way up to the valve train as quickly as possible to bring the protection back where it should be. So while a thicker, higher viscosity oil does usually provide a stronger film surface to protect the bearings, that only applies once the oil is in place and ready to do its job.
But thicker oil is more resistant to flow, and it takes longer for the oil pump to push it through the oil galleries to where it needs to be. A thinner, lower viscosity oil flows more easily right at startup and gets to those critical areas more quickly.
Because of that, a thinner oil can actually do a great job of reducing the wear an engine sees when it is first cranked. So the obvious question becomes how thick is too thick? Or, how thin is too thin? After much research, Speed says a good rule of thumb is to monitor the oil pressure at idle when the engine is up to operating temperature. Consider 20 pounds of hot oil pressure at idle to be a safe minimum, so start with your usual oil viscosity and lower the viscosity at each oil change until you get to 25 or 30 pounds idle pressure.
Additives have to be carefully matched one to another to make sure they work together as a package. Speed says there are chemicals in many common additives that actively counteract the effects of other additives. So simply dumping a bottle of some additive into your engine during your next oil change can actually leave you worse off than if you had done nothing. Similarly, choosing a motor oil because it has a higher percentage of a particular additive can also be counterproductive.
One of the most popular additives—especially for racers or owners of muscle cars with engines using flat tappet camshafts and lifters—is Zinc, also known as ZDDP, because it creates a protective sacrificial barrier between the camshaft and lifter faces that slowly wears away.
There are also different types of Zinc additive packages. Some are designed to work best in diesel engines, some are less harmful to catalytic converters, and some are designed to provide simply to provide maximum valve train protection.
Thinking an oil with the highest concentration of Zinc will provide the most protection is a myth because not all Zinc additive packages are created equally.Department of Transpertation. If there is one Internet topic that has just kicked a horse dead, it is the proper method to breaking in a motor.
There has been so much written on this topic that enginebasics. Break it in easy Method one says that the motor should be run very light for its first 1, miles of use. That you should constantly be varying the load on the engine while also varying the RPM, but never exceed part throttle in any situation. The idea here is that the motor needs light loads and varying RPM to gently wear all of the parts together so that they will match without causing damage or excessive wear to any given part.
The man who has been accredited for starting this type of engine break in procedure is Motoman.
Check out his website. For both options it is said to use standard oil. Again many say to switch to synthetic later rather than sooner. Synthetics are too slippery and will basically STOP the break in of any motor once it is added. This is why it is best to just stay off the synthetic oil bandwagon till you are completely sure the motor is broken in. Incase you were wondering I seem to side with Motoman.
With so many variables it is best to break the engine in slow since there could be high amounts of heat and wear that occur because of these differences.
For a motor that has been hand built, and measured by a machine shop to have perfect tolerances knowing that everything has been machined correctly, then option two just makes way more sense. So there it is. Another opinion out there in the Internet world. Whatever your decision, it will always be the right decision for you. Whatever the decision use the right oil. Break in oil should not be skimped on but is hard to find locally.
Some of the best prices I have seen are online and just click the link below and look at all the specs and differences a break in oil has. Pay close attention in the description to the amount of zinc and zddp these "break in" oils contain. It could be the difference of having your motor seal just right:.
Want to know more about your particular Make and Model vehicle? All of these vehicles are covered in the tech, maintenance and repair articles found above. Enginebasics is the wiki or wikipedia of car part, repair, how to and tuning information. Let us be the class for your automotive learning. Below are just a few of the articles found here on enginebasics.
Dynamic Compression Air to Air Vs. Special thanks to:.
Thank you for showing the REAL easy way, and saving me some money.If its just a piston kit then yes just ride normally from the off. RMracer wrote:. Ride it like you stole it, but warm it up nice and slow because Wiseco pistons are forged and expand more than cast pistons.
piston break in
Once the motor is good and warmed, hit the track and go like hell. Top End. NorcalVet wrote:. He has a cc so it's either Wiseco or Vertex and most people don't know Vertex makes cast big bore pistons.
Scott wrote:. It's best to break it in, you need to seat the rings and wear down any high spots. By the way you don't need to hone a plated cylinder and if you do you should use a cross grinder to keep the cross hatching.
That can be a problem at warm-up with a forged 2T piston. Essentially, OEM cast pistons can tolerate less warmup without sticking to the cylinder, which can benefit the typical impatient motocrosser. Cast OEM pistons can also tolerate higher peak engine temps, just in case you are the type that can hold the throttle WFO for extended periods of time. Team green has forgotten more than most have remembered when it comes to scooters and how to deal with them.
I'd go with what he sez. You Are Not So Smart. My Video Thread. A couple Very Simple rules. Warm it up 'til the head is "warm to the touch" Check that the oil is right post warm-up. Have the Radiators welded. Congratulations on almost being a mechanical engineer, but there's a reason 4th year med students don't perform bypass surgery.
Your links to other forums just have people debating the same things as we are here. Remember I recommended he warm the motor up "nice and slow" and only go like hell "after it is good and warm" I even explained that "Wiseco pistons are forged and will expand faster than cast. If talk to race engine builders most will agree hard break in is the way to go. Since you shared, here's my credentials. That went on all day with only short breaks for gas and to switch riders.
None of the bikes ever seized. When I asked the engineer, laughed and said these bikes don't need to be broken in. For the past decade I've owned or worked for large performance suspension and engine building companies. All my engines get broken in that way and every builder I've worked with or learned from believes that the harder you run it in the better the rings seal. I could go on but I get the feeling you won't be swayed and that's fine by me.
Just letting you know that what I'm saying comes from practical experience and specified training, not from something I read on the Internet from some collage student with no real world experience.
TeamGreen wrote:. Do this. I have also raced for the last 12 years and no i may not have as much "practical" experience as you may have but i do have some. I can certainly agree with you there. I do believe that people should do what they're comfortable with and if it ain't broke don't fix it.
This kind of discussion can easily turn out like a or premix debate, but we can save that for another threadOriginal Poster. Search My Stuff What's New 3 12 24 Engine Break in secrets Ston Original Poster posts months. Almost has me convinced.
Nuggs 4, posts months. Personally I'd be much happier taking the advice of the chaps that made and know the engine, and therefore go for the 'easy break-in'. As opposed to taking the advice of some bloke that just happens to own a website I have to say then when I first saw the topic heading, I thought this was going to be a 'how do I get into a locked car and start it-type effort.
Engine Break-in Secrets for Your ATV
Thankbloodygoodness it isn't If for years you've been told not to put your hand in fire because you'll catch fire, and then someone one day comes along and says its ok to put your hands in fire, your hands will burn, but you'll survive and heres my neighbours dog who did it for living proof - will you do it????
How big is the fire? I just don't have the heart to thrash my very expensive pride and joy from new so I've meticulously run in every car I've ever had. Only evidence in favour of this guy's theory is that many new cars have crappy oil in them to allow a degree of engine wear that the ultra slick synthetics won't.
My honda s was one. They actually recommended not putting fully synthetic oil in for the first few thousand miles. The other evidence is race engines. They are never run in. I can only imagine that they would be if there was a significant power advantage. That said, they may have some bench running in programme before being put in a car.
But I don't think they do. Also most modern cars are tested for horse power eg ferrari and porsche so that each engine can be guaranteed to produce a minimum amount of power before going into a car. That of course means running them flat out for power readings. BMW owners seem to love thrashing from cold. They now have warning lights to try and stop them doing this. I can only imagine it was becoming a warranty issue.
I've also seen many a brand new ferrari being thrashed stone cold and brand new away from Maranello's in egham. I guess with most being sold with only a few thousand miles they haven't got time to waste. But it always looks and sounds really cruel! I wonder if there will ever be a definitive answer to this age old debate?
Olly-B posts months. Apparently Porsche do not recomend stationary warming up but in fact encourage start up and immediate drive off though not neccessarily thrashing it.
But full-on race engines will be pretty close to blueprint engines and will probably also be stripped and rebuilt at the end of each race Much better to have it pulling under load. It definately gets you more power. But I too would never do it on my trevorH igh oil consumption, excessive smoke through the exhausthigh blow-by, lower than expected power output and increased oil contamination are just some of the possible results of an improper engine break-in or run-in.
Even if the best parts are used and the proper machining and assembly was executed, an improper break-in can result in some or all of the negative consequences. Before sharing our process, we will outline the goals, history and challenges associated with performance engine break-in.
An improper break-in procedure will affect performance, reliability and longevity. The primary goal of the break-in process is to establish an ideal wear profile between the piston rings and the cylinder wall.
When a proper break-in is executed, the ring will be riding on a film of oil on the bearing loading surface of the cylinder wall while the valleys in the cross-hatched surface provide proper oil retention. Neither the ring, nor the cylinder wall can experience too little or too much wear for a proper break-in. The process of trying to establish this proper wear profile is sometimes referred to as setting or seating the rings. An ideal setting or seating between the rings and the cylinder results in minimal leakage past the rings, minimal oil consumption, reduced cylinder wear, reduced ring wear and exceptional heat transfer between the rings and the cylinder wall.
Years ago, the common practice was to hone a cylinder with a single grade of abrasive stone based on the type of ring to be used. Today, high-performance machine shops employ a plateau honing procedure where stages of finer stones or abrasive brush knock down these peaks, establishing a better load-bearing surface during break-in.
The benefits of proper engine break-in affects all four cycles. During the intake stroke, vacuum present in the cylinder pulls a minimal amount of oil into the cylinder past the well-sealed rings.
During the compression stroke, a superior ring seal limits the amount of fresh air-fuel charge that makes its way past the rings and into the crankcase. During the power stroke, a properly broken-in engine will not only minimize the amount of combustion pressure forced past the rings, it will also maximize the amount of heat transfer from the rings to the cylinder walls due to a greater contact patch.
During the exhaust stroke, proper break-in ensures that little if any of the exhaust products find a way past the rings and into the crankcase. The top drawing illustrates some of the peaks and valleys present after a single-stage conventional honing process.
The second illustration from top shows a plateau honed surface and the valleys that will hold the lubricating oil in place. When improper break-in occurs, a cylinder wall can become glazed shiny appearance with burnt oil and wear particles forced into the valley originally holding oil. Over time, the lack of lubrication wears the cylinder and rings even more as shown in the bottom image. An ideal surface for a cylinder wall would be perfecly flat to maximum contact area while providing a properly-sized resovoir for the oil retention.How to Break in New Car Engine Discussion
A plateau honing gets close to this ideal with the Rpk value representing the height of the peaks that will likely be removed during break-in.
The Rk value represents the amount of surface that is available to wear away while the RvK value is the measure of the depths of the oil retention valleys. Today, piston ring technology incorporates superior materials and high-tech hard coatings in many instances. As a result, a 1. Different materials, different face profiles and different coatings all influence how the ring will wear.
All four of these companies are constantly pushing development on higher-strength materials and the application of high-tech coatings or processes useful for piston rings when it comes to the compression and second rings. In addition, these manufacturers are also looking for ways to develop oil rings that provide minimal oil consumption with minimal ring tension to reduce friction and improve fuel economy. Unfortunately, the ideal surface finish is rarely, if ever, provided to the customer of the new set of pistons and rings.
Because less than 1. In these circumstances, some or all cylinders may fail to properly seat the rings regardless of the break-in process used.